The Anthem Men’s Spring/Summer 2011 Collection by Rick Owens is characterised by austerity. Yet fluid lines and elaborate cuts add an intriguing complexity to the collection; opulent but not superficial.
The collection evokes certain mysticism as if the garment’s sole purpose was the use in some form of ritual, expressing a spiritual search for an idealistic cause. Yet the stylistic influences from the garments of common workers reveal that seeking such idealistic, high purpose, is designated to fail. It is a collection about the conflict of the desire to believe in something and the vanity of life. It is about a self destructive, almost nihilistic (!) idealism in affinity with romanticism. Beautiful collection.
“I WAS THINKING OF AUSTERITY AND SEVERITY IN AN OPULENT WAY. LIGHT STIFF SILK CANVAS COATS, CRISP POPLIN SHIRT/COATS AND RIGID ARCHITECTURAL LEATHERS. I LIKE THINKING OF UNIFORMS AND FUNCTIONAL WORK GARMENTS THAT MIX THE SHAPES OF A SLAVE’S SKIRT FROM AN EGYPTIAN TOMB, A VIONNET DRAPED TSHIRT AND A LEATHER JKT MADE OUT OF AN OLD EILEEN GREY CHAIR…….
I LIKE SUGGESTING A COMMITMENT TO SOME IDEALISTIC HIGHER PURPOSE WITH THE VEILS ALTHOUGH I DON’T REALLY BELIEVE IN ONE MYSELF- MAYBE I WILL ONE DAY. FOR NOW, I’M ATTRACTED TO THE CEREMONY, PAGEANTRY AND SACRIFICE THAT SPIRITUAL DEVOTION SUGGESTS…….”